this issue contains
>> Crossing borders with artcouture
>> Comics at Louis Vuitton
>> Art of the runway at Issey Miyake' s
>> Fashion's muse: Claudia Skoda
>> Bootlegging brands with Olaf Nicolai

>> archive

 

CK: What happens when art reaches a mass audience - is that called fashion and film?

TM : When my work reaches a mass audience, then it means I'm able to communicate well. It's very important to share that feeling. I want a big audience so that my pieces can survive in the future.


Louis Vuitton store, New York, 2004 / Photo: Cheryl Kaplan

CK : The fashion collaboration you did for the Spring/Summer 2003 collection with Marc Jacobs, the artistic director for Louis Vuitton, had a massive public impact and appeal. Your first major fashion project was with Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake in 2000, when you made a reversible raincoat. You've also created a line of your own products that are available at galleries and online. Your characters have been the connecting point for both your art and fashion.

TM: The LV design ideas came from Marc Jacobs' orders and direction, as a response to is request. It was an illustration that I did - it was design work. I don't regret using my characters in the context of fashion. Louis Vuitton work is exactly that: design work. The collection is separate from my sculpture, like the Lonesome Cowboy. I didn't really use those characters in the context of fashion.

CK: But you used certain symbols on the handbags that married with the LV monogram.

TM: I did the collection with Louis Vuitton and Issey Miyake, but it was the fashion designer who wanted to carry my design; the work wasn't linked to a pure art concept. I see the work I do as an artist as being separate from the work I've done for fashion and design.



Takashi Murakami: My Lonesome Cowboy, Courtesy: Kaikai Kiki. Reproduced with permission. (c)1998 Takashi Murakami. All Rights Reserved.

CK : The Tokyo Girls Bravo exhibition at Marianne Boesky Gallery is another in a series of curated events you've done. In what way does this group show of 10 emerging Japanese artists continue the workshop ensemble idea you've established in N.Y. and Tokyo, first with Hiropon (heroin) Factory and now Kaikai Kiki Studio?

TM: Japanese artists have huge potential, but in Japan, there's no market and no structure for an art vision in the commercial world. In New York, there's a big market for fine art. I'd like to bring these artists, to test this possibility, to see if it's good or bad. I'd like to get a really good reaction here and then see.


CK: Has the contemporary art market changed in Japan?

TM : Yes and no. Yes, because last year there was the inauguration of the Mori Art Center, which made a very big and positive impact on Japanese culture. The Mori building and town project had a very strong impact. The Japanese economy has been slow. Public museums don't get money from the government. It's a bad situation for young Japanese artists.

CK: In talking about his fashion line, Marc Jacobs said: "I'm not interested in creating pieces for a museum." This struck me as an interesting contrast to your practice, which involves art venues.

TM: Marc Jacobs is in the fashion world, so he doesn't deal with the museum reality, but with the public. At the moment, I can't really say what the museum reality is.

At "Tokyo Girls Bravo", Takashi Murakami is knee-deep in admirers. He's even signing autographs. A crowd of Murakami supporters shuffles out of the elevator. Everyone looks cute. Murakami poses for a few snapshots. I talk with Tim Blum from Blum and Poe, Murakami's L.A. dealer, about Murakami's latest endeavors. Later, Blum hops into a cab. This is New York.

CHERYL KAPLAN: How does Takashi Murakami's collaboration with a fashion designer like Marc Jacobs or Naoki Takizawa differ from his art projects?

TIM BLUM : Culture is part of the entertainment industry. That blurring of lines between high and low into one flat line has been Murakami's credo, falling into the "Superflat."

CK: Even as Murakami's LV handbag collaboration hit the knock-off stage, it seemed like part of his "Superflat" strategy.

TB: That was the dream. Especially when that image appeared on the cover of artforum. Takashi was freaking out, and it was ideal. The LV project catapulted him into mass media and a mass cultural realm. Within the art world, there were people who took that as fodder that he's a celebrated designer. The art world is unable to deal with artists addressing a mass audience. For people who don't understand what he's about, the work can be looked at as incredibly attractive, cute, majestic, Disney-esque. Murakami starts out being frustrated with the Japanese art world. Moving his way through the Western art world, he realizes there aren't a lot of differences, it's just a bigger market.



Takashi Murakami: Reversed Dauble-Helix, 2003,
Installation at Rockefeller Center New York
Photo: Tom Powel Imagining (c) Public Art Fund

CK: What's the relationship of the "Superflat," a term you helped invent, to the fashion world, particularly to the Miyake and Vuitton collections?

TB : "Superflat" comes from a formal position that deals with perspectival rendering. Then, there's a theoretical idea of "Superflat" as a cultural pivoting point. The Superflat exhibition at the MoCA in L.A. dealt with that head on, including artists from different disciplines. There was a fashion collaboration Chiho Aoshima's wall mural collaboration with Issey Miyake for their spring 2000 campaign re-positioned as an art work.

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